Falstaff Weinguide 2009/10
This is what sets apart the true greats among the winegrowers: whether it is an inconsequential vintage or a great vintage, one can always rely on them. And for years now, one must take the Kollwentz family into account at every tasting – regardless of which style or which grape variety. And at Falstaff magazine’s meeting this summer, all tasters were clearly unanimous…
Not only is the classically vinified Chardonnay from the Leithagebirge each year among the best wines made from the variety, but the two frequent winners of the Burgunder-Barrique-Trophy from the vineyards Tatschler and Gloria are also always found at the forefront. And if the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon was the victor in its varietal category at the Falstaff red wine judging, the jurors chose the Blaufränkisch Point 2004 as the second best wine in the current competition for the Reserve Trophy. Anton Kollwentz, the senior, is the pioneer of Cabernet Sauvignon in Austria, and he set off a regular Cabernet boom with his Falstaff victories in 1984 and 1984. His son Andi Kollwentz is the decathlete among Austria’s winegrowers, because he is a master in the most widely varied events, and is always found in the top of the field in every category. The red wine portfolio at Kollwentz is dominated by Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt. The traditional variety Blaufränkisch with its power and spice forms the backbone of Steinzeiler and Eichkogel, producing the first class monovarietal Blaufränkisch wines ‘vom Leithagebirge’ and ‘Point’ as well. The latter was awarded 94 points at the last Reserve-Trophy tasting.
Zweigelt, with its dark berry fruit, elegance and supple nature, yields a multifacetted red wine, which in addition to shining in the varietal Zweigelt ‘Föllikberg’ is also used in cuvées as an element that provides harmony. One new arrival in the portfolio is an excellent Pinot Noir from the Ried Dürr. And particular attention is owed to the Sauvignon Blanc from Ried Steinmühle, where the flint (silex) soils offer the optimal conditions for growing this spicy variety. And year for year, a small quantity of extremely fine nobly sweet wines are vinified, from Sauvignon Blanc as well as from Chardonnay and Welschriesling – these can be traced back to the 1963 vintage in the Kollwentz vinotheque.