Gault Millau 2008
Kollwentz wines do not cause very much of a stir – people simply have become accustomed to the fact that they are first-class, albeit among the best of the country.
What is actually difficult is to give preference to one of them, because Anton and Andi Kollwentz master every discipline in superior style: Steinzeiler, one of the first blockbuster blends of the country, 2005 more approaching and charming than the muscular 2004.
Cabernet Sauvignon – Anton Kollwentz was the first to plant this grape in Austria – appealing and cassis-driven. The Chardonnays Tatschler and Gloria, in their minerality, finesse and length probably Austria’s best Chardonnays.
Sauvignon Blanc Steinmühle – the textbook example of a barrel-fermented power Sauvignon. And this year again an absolute top range, without doubt one of the best wineries of the country.